Printing with Acid dyes on Protein fabrics

As part of technical content print specialism students on the textiles programme are inducted in the process of printing with acid dyes on protein fabrics.

Are there actions technical staff can take to reduce waste and make this process more sustainable?

**Examples of students work: acid dyes printed on silk using technical teaching screens.**

**This is the Acid dye recipe we currently use**

It seems that Glydote BN and Perminal KB have basically the same function. It would be worth investigating if removing one or possibly both of these chemicals from the dye paste recipe would have a detrimental effect on the quality of the printed fabric.

Students select the colours they need from the dye chart then select the dye tubs they need.

**Dyes and auxillary chemicals are mixed into a paste in the local exhaust ventillation unit and a dye paste is produced**

1/2 meter of silk is cut into 3 equal sample pieces, pinned to the print table and screen printed with acid dye paste. The dry sample is rolled in a steaming cloth and placed in a steaming cabinet for 45 minutes to ‘fix’ the dye paste into the fabric meaning the print is permanant and can be repeatedly washed. The sample is washed in cool water to remove auxillary chemicals, indalca paste carrier and dye until water runs clear. The finished sample is ironed

As with so many processes in the Print and Dye specialism the process of printing protein fabrics with acid dyes is not a good one for the enviroment. Chemical dyes and auxillary chemicals are required, alot of water and energy is used and we currently use virgin ‘first use’ silk straight from the factory.

However a printed silk garment or textile product has a ‘special nature’ and if cared for well can last for generations and not need to be replaced as frequently as a less special everyday textile product. A higher quality product that lasts longer is one way of addressing the probelms of textile over production.

I will look at the recipe and do some tests to see if removing one or both of the wetting agents has a detrimental effect on the quality of the printed samples produced. I have reduced the size of printed samples produced in university inductions but we could also look at using recycled or second use silk in the sampling process. I currently use recycled cotton when inducting year 1 students in the print room. It is challenging to technically teach students to an industry level as is required but also adhere to University sustainability goals. Although industry likes to talk about sustainability in the media it also wants to employ students who are trained to design in a way condusive to the practices they currently employ.

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